Throwback Thursday: Patek Philippe Reference 3974

Patek Philippe’s history is a constant stream of highlights, particularly when looking at their more complicated pieces. The brand invented the annual calendar, but not before making its mark on one of the most coveted complications available, the perpetual calendar. The reference 3974 holds a special place in this, as it was the very first perpetual calendar with a minute repeater, powered by an automatic movement.

When looking at the watch, it oozes that exclusivity on which Patek Philippe seems to have a patent. It looks small with a diameter of 36mm, but when on the wrist, it all comes together. Despite its modest size, or perhaps because of it, it demands attention. Patek Philippe kept the dial rather clean, and therefore legible. It features the classic setup of two subdials, combined with a third, cut out to show the moon phase disc. This symmetrical design is rather pleasing, and the stepped case of reference 3974 gives it a timeless appeal. On the right side, there is a robust crown, while on the left, a slide piece tells discerning watch connoisseurs that this is not only a perpetual calendar but one with a minute repeater as well.

Even in the world of Patek Philippe, this is a complex watch. It was initially launched in 1989 to celebrate the brand’s 150th anniversary. While it stayed in production until the year 2000, the production numbers remained low. The watch was available in gold and platinum, like the one pictured, and only eight pieces are known of the latter. The heart of reference 3974 is caliber 27RQ. It consists out of 467 different parts, yet Patek Philippe was still able to make the movement only a mere 6.80mm thick. A momentous achievement, all the more as the case was also specially developed to give the minute repeater the best sound possible. Thanks to a beautifully decorated micro-rotor, it was not only the first perpetual calendar with a minute repeater powered by an automatic movement but also the most complicated watch available in the world at the time of launch.