The New Hermès Arceau Lift Tourbillon Répétition Minutes; A Very Rare Delight

The New Hermès Arceau Lift Tourbillon Répétition Minutes; A Very Rare Delight

Martin Green
By Martin Green September 9, 2020

While Hermès is already very exclusive, is the new Arceau Lift Tourbillon Répétition Minutes even rarer. The brand will only make two examples of this watch, one in pink gold and one in white gold. That is also its biggest disappointment, as it impresses on all other fronts.

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While the combination of a flying tourbillon and a minute repeater is enough to send most watch collecters in awe, it is the way that Hermès did it that set it apart from the rest. The dial is made partially transparent, shaped like the head of a horse. Underneath some of the essential parts of the minute repeater are revealed. While this is a somewhat whimsical approach, it is done with such finesse that it works very well. The shape of the tourbillon cage is also unique and similar to that of the Arceau Lift of 2013, the first tourbillon of Hermès. The inspiration for it came off the wrought-iron doors of the elevator at Hermès flagship store at 24, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris.

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At the back fo the watch, we also find a unique reference to Hermès equestrian history, as some of the bridges are shaped like the head of horses. It is done with such elegance that it has a significant impact on the watch’s overall perception. Manufacture Haute Complications (MHC) developed and made the movement, which features an industrial yet refined finish of all the parts. The chamfered edges on the part subtly highlight them, especially at the front. The two versions differ from each other, not only because of the type of metal but also because of the dial’s color. The rose gold Arceau Lift Tourbillon Répétition Minutes is matched by a white lacquered dial, while the white gold edition features one in blue. This makes them look quite different from each other despite that they share the same movement and design. It makes it all the more a pity that both of them are only a one-off, as they combine the unique DNA of Hermès so seamlessly with such a complex movement.