Straight Edge: Strap On A Square Watch For A Change
Square watches are not always the most popular choice when it comes to luxury mechanical watches, but when it’s done right—like these beauties from Cartier, Hermès, TAG Heuer, and Vacheron Constantin—donning straight edges on your wrist is a refreshing change of pace from classically round timepieces.
Hermès Carré H
Hermès made their SIHH debut in January this year and for the occasion, the company unveiled a revamped version of their Carré H watch designed by architect and designer, Marc Berthier. Aptly named after the French word for “square,” the new Carré H watch sports a 38mm x 38mm square case with rounded corners built in stainless steel. The dial, which is offered in gray or black, houses guilloché accents, applied Arabic numerals (note the zero before the single-digit hours for added balance), and a colorful T-shaped seconds hand. The square caseback offers a round window into the automatic movement within, decorated with the famous “H” hallmark. And as a maison that is famous for creating some of the world’s most coveted leather goods, the Hermès Carré H’s Barenia calfskin strap is pure pleasure on the wrist.
Photo Credit: Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin Historiques Ultra-Fine 1968
Inspired by a vintage Vacheron Constantin watch made five decades ago, the Historiques Ultra-Fine 1968 may be square, but it’s far from boring. Featuring a pink gold 35.2mm x 35.2mm case that measures a mere 5.5mm thick, this contemporary reissue of a Vacheron Constantin classic is an appealing geometric approach to a fine dress watch. The straightforward time-only silvered dial includes just the hour and minute hands, also in pink gold, along with matching applied stick indexes. The Historiques Ultra-Fine 1968 runs on the legendary ultra-thin Caliber 1120 automatic movement bearing the prestigious Geneva Seal but hidden beneath a solid caseback. Finishing off the look of this tasteful vintage-inspired square timepiece is a classic black alligator strap with the characteristic Vacheron Constantin Maltese Cross buckle.
Cartier Santos
The master of shaped watches, Cartier knows a thing or two about creating striking silhouettes. For example, the Cartier Santos—the world’s first pilot’s watch (hence one of the earliest examples of a wristwatch)—has unquestionably set the benchmark for elegant square watches. Somewhat overlooked over the last few decades but never forgotten, Cartier decided to bring this important model back into the spotlight in 2018 with a collection of brand new Santos models. Still flaunting the essential square case with the screw-decorated bezel, square dial with black Roman numerals and blued steel hands, the modern Santos is curvier and more customizable than past editions. And in true Cartier fashion, there are enough size, material, and complication choices to suit a host of tastes and budgets.
TAG Heuer Monaco
Square watches can most certainly be sporty too as illustrated by the iconic TAG Heuer Monaco. But this isn’t your standard issue Monaco, but rather, a Monaco Bamford Edition limited to 500 pieces. In case you missed the news, it was announced about this time last year that Bamford has now been appointed as the authorized customization partner of TAG Heuer. Boasting a black 39 mm x 39mm carbon case, a rich black dial with vibrant aqua blue accents, and a black leather strap, this Monaco is stealth and dramatic all at the same time. The dial layout, the left case side position of the winding crown, and the right case side position of the chronograph pushers will all be familiar for those acquainted with the almost-50-year-old Monaco model, but this is the first time that Bamford officially creates a bespoke Monaco for TAG Heuer.