Ronnie Fieg Is A Collector By Nature

By Adrienne Faurote November 25, 2024

FROM THE ART OF COLLECTING TO THE SENTIMENT BEHIND HIS LATEST TIMEPIECE, A RARE GLIMPSE INTO THE MIND OF RONNIE FIEG.

The name Ronnie Fieg has become synonymous with a lifestyle. It has become synonymous with Fieg’s personal relationship with what luxury is and how he has allowed others to become a part of it.

We often conclude our Haute Living cover interviews by asking the interviewees what the concept of luxury means to them. However, for this particular story, not only did I not have to ask the question, but I’m starting the story with it.

As the founder, CEO, and creative director of Kith, Ronnie Fieg has established a brand that reflects his distinct perspective, fundamentally reinterpreting luxury through the idea of rarity. It’s Fieg’s keen eye for design and innovation that has distinguished him within the industry.

Kith is one of those brands that I distinctly remember where I was the moment it debuted in 2011. I had just moved to New York, and as a young college freshman in the fashion design program at Parsons School of Design, it is fair to say everyone on campus knew about Kith.

Fast forward to today, the power of Kith is nothing short of remarkable. Initially started as a multi-brand footwear shop, Kith has expanded globally into 19 retail destinations across the United States, Paris, London, Toronto, Tokyo, and Seoul. “Over time, we developed and were able to bring together a community,” Fieg reflects on the early days of Kith.

The demand was certainly there. “Many people were asking for products with the name of the store, Kith, on them, so we started doing that in 2012, which was about a year and a half after we opened our first store,” he explains. “Through the concept of collaboration with footwear partners that I had started working on in 2007 when I was at David Z, we apply the same concept of collaborating with brands that I love and am passionate about — brands that I grew up with.”

For the last 13 years, Fieg has been at the helm of Kith as they rapidly expanded, yet he has remained in the consumer chair. It is in this position Fieg is the most powerful. First and foremost, he has always been the consumer himself. “In the beginning, we basically started to build a universe and work on so many different products around my lifestyle and what I love to wear and use. We were able to build an incredible business around my lifestyle,” he says.

Kith has undoubtedly mastered the art of connecting with consumers. “It comes naturally to me because, ultimately, I am a consumer,” Fieg admits, emphasizing the impact of his unique position. “I love product, and I am always looking for something different for myself. I am constantly looking for luxury in products, which can mean a variety of things,” Fieg continues. “It means scarcity and sentimental value, and I believe that is what resonates with people. They recognize this in how I approach product development; I provide customers with more than what they pay for; and they see value in the product that I work on.”

As I walked into Fieg’s office on the morning of our shoot, I was instantly immersed in the fascinating world of Ronnie Fieg. The room is intentionally decorated with one-of-a-kind memorabilia from different collections and collaborations from his career, resembling a museum. As I took it all in, I couldn’t help but think: if these walls could talk.

What strikes me is that you can sense Fieg’s presence in his office even when he’s not there. This feeling draws the perfect parallel to the exact concept on which Kith is built. Fieg is particular; he moves with intention and genuinely cares about fostering that connection with his community.

“I began to establish credibility with consumers through a few products I worked on early in my career. People wanted to see products from my point of view — through my lens. That’s really where it all began — with trust,” Fieg explains. “My team and I were able to build this incredible momentum and confidence with consumers and fans of the brand. They were interested in our point of view.”

His office is certainly a testament to the power of his products. As I take it all in, my focus narrows on what’s sitting on his desk, by his computer: a big TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” watch head.

In May this year, during the F1 Grand Prix in Miami, Kith and TAG Heuer collaborated to launch a limited-edition collection of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 watch, which sold out within seconds (in a typical Fieg release fashion). “Conversations began early on with Frédéric Arnault, as we both wanted to see the F1 watch come back to life,” Fieg explains about the origin of the collaboration.

“It was actually the first watch I ever owned, so it felt natural and authentic that it would be the model we would work on. So, through conversations and brainstorming, we designed a limited-release, one-of-one watch for each of our Kith outposts. We were able to put together this beautiful box of watches that became highly coveted, and we really disrupted the market in the best way possible,” he continues.

For Fieg, the TAG Heuer F1 watch is a full 360-moment. It’s not only the first watch he ever owned but also his earliest memory of watches.

“My mom worked at Tourneau, and she was the one who bought me my first TAG Heuer. Watches were kind of praised by my mother at an early age, and I got to see some of those watches at the Tourneau store at the Roosevelt Field Mall in New York.”

Fieg’s next watch was an incentive. “My mom told me that if I graduated college, she would buy me my first Rolex — and my parents do not have money like that, so it was a big commitment.”

Spoiler alert: Fieg did not graduate, but he still got a Rolex. “Funny story, I actually dropped out of college one semester before graduating,” he admits. “I made that decision to take my career more seriously because I knew that I was doing what I always wanted to do at that point — I was starting to buy and became an assistant buyer at David Z. To celebrate that decision, I decided to buy myself my first Rolex. I wanted to treat myself for making that decision.”

Fieg purchased the Pepsi GMT, a historical timepiece in both Rolex history and in his personal journey, as it marked the beginning of his watch-collecting adventure.

It’s imperative to note that Fieg is an innate collector. “I fell in love with Rolex. I am a collector by nature — when I buy something I love, I need to have it in every form and every iteration. That is how it started with footwear. Well, it actually began with comics, then trading cards, and then footwear. And the next category I would collect would be watches. It started with the Rolex in 2004.”

Collectors are driven by a desire to preserve, study, and appreciate the items they collect. For many, the art of collecting goes beyond the object itself and fosters an emotional connection. For Fieg, collecting is all about the sentimental value his watches hold. Case in point: certain Rolexes represent significant events throughout his career, like the openings of Kith stores or major life milestones, including the births of his two daughters.

“The Patek Philippe 5990 Tiffany & Co. is the watch I purchased when my second daughter Mila was born. In fact, it was the last watch I bought, which was about eight months ago,” he reveals, before correcting himself. “Actually, that’s a lie. I did purchase a few vintage watches while I was in Tokyo and Seoul. I bought a few dress watches — the Vacheron Constantin Chronomètre Royal Ref. 2215, which is one-of-one — the only working watch in its color, which is quite crazy.” While that is indeed crazy, for Fieg, it feels completely appropriate.

“The design of the Vacheron Chronomètre Royal is one of my favorites of all time, alongside the Patek Aquanaut and Nautilus. To me, it is the most timeless shape for a watch. It’s both elegant and sporty. I truly fell in love with the design, which is why I have collected so many iterations of them.”

The morning of our shoot, Fieg brought four Patek Philippe models from his 50-piece collection. And in true Fieg fashion, the selection of these Pateks was very intentional.

So, what did Fieg bring to the set? Let’s start with the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5164R. “This is the most elegant watch — it’s the easiest to wear out of the four because the color combination of the chocolate brown is really strong, especially for the fall and wintertime.

Chocolate brown and beige tones go really well with this watch, apparel-wise, and I have a lot of browns in my closet,” he admits. “It’s sporty yet very elegant. I think Patek does a really good job of balancing those attributes — you can dress it up or down. Most of the Aquanauts serve that purpose well.”

“I appreciate some of the newer designs in the Nautilus collection [the Patek Philippe NautilusTravel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990/1A]; I love the color palette and the sunburst finish on the face, which is really unique and cool. When I first saw this watch, I knew I needed to have it,” he explains. It is a shared sentiment that resonates with many of us watch enthusiasts when we see a certain timepiece.

Then there’s his Nautilus Ref. 5712G. “The 5712G was the first Patek I ever owned, which, at this point, is six years old. And that was the ‘dressy’ watch I needed to wear with a suit. It’s great to be able to alternate with my Rolexes, Vacherons, and Audemars Piguets; I understand the value of the watches I buy because I wear all of them.”

This brings us to the watch he wears the least. A brief digression: as I arrived at our shoot, I thought I had extensively researched Fieg’s collection, but I was taken aback when I saw him wearing the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R Travel Time Chronograph, Tiffany & Co. stamped (also owned by Jay-Z). I did a double take at his wrist. “This is the watch I will probably wear the least; it’s like an art piece for me. I really wanted it for a long time, and I feel grateful to have been able to purchase it,” he says, looking at the watch with the same admiration I assume he felt at the time of the purchase.

“I collect for big moments of my life,” he continues. “This piece was especially meaningful as it celebrated the birth of my second daughter. The experience of going to the Tiffany & Co. Landmark boutique in New York to make the purchase gave me butterflies in my stomach. I was starting to sweat just thinking about it,” he jokes. “I’m truly grateful to have this in my collection.”

Fieg’s collection is evolving as he ages. As he grows older, his collection expands. “These are pieces I am going to pass down,” he shares. “I think about collecting in that sense; I just want timeless watches that will live forever.” Each watch he has freezes a moment in time, serving as a notch in his timeline. “Looking back, they hold memories that are really important to me. I have a personal connection to each watch I have ever purchased,” he explains.

“Anything that I collect — whether it be cars, watches, comics, Marvel cards, or footwear — reflects my desire for products that I love, where I can look back and remember that moment in time.”

At this specific moment in time, though, Fieg has decided to take a bit of a break in expanding his watch collection after the purchase of the aforementioned Patek Ref. 5990, which marks his 50th watch. However, he is still keeping an eye on a few timepieces, particularly vintage Vacherons.

“There is a Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar I am hoping I will be able to get my hands on eventually; I have been looking for that watch for a long time,” he admits. I have no doubt Fieg will eventually add that watch to his collection — when the timing is right.

Engaging in a conversation with Fieg about his passion for products is a privilege. His knowledge is extensive yet remarkably precise when discussing the current state of the watch industry. “I think that a lot of these watch brands are coming out of Covid and recognizing and seeing the

boom in the increased interest globally in the category,” he begins to explain. “These brands were implementing various strategies to capitalize on this momentum. Some are staying true to themselves and consistently working to maximize their brand potential and ethos, while a few brands, I’d say, have strayed from their core strengths, which could be detrimental in the long run.”

“Over the past five or six years, it has been great to see more enthusiasts getting involved in the vintage and collecting aspect. I think the vintage market has definitely jumped (and rightfully so) as a lot of these older pieces are one-of-ones and are considered art.”

Reflecting on Fieg’s museum-like office, it’s clear that he deeply appreciates the idea of products as art, with watches being no exception. “When I see some of these vintage watches, and I study them, I really consider these my favorite type of art,” he says. “You are able to wear these pieces and enjoy them on the go, not just to hang them on your wall where they have no function. That is why I consider a lot of these artworks.”

Acquiring a timepiece is an art form that is just as beautiful as the watch itself. “Experiencing the purchase of [probably] my favorite watch in my collection at Tiffany & Co. is a feeling that still resonates with real enthusiasts. That feeling of getting something you have wanted for a long time — it’s a great feeling.”

On the other hand, Fieg emphasizes the importance of accessibility within the industry. “I hate what has happened with having to be ‘someone special’ to get access to things. I wish everyone was able to get everything they ever wanted [when it comes to watches], but I understand the business side of keeping things scarce to maintain value — so there is a balance there.” A fine line that Fieg has mastered walking.

“Time is something you will never get back, and I think it is the most valuable asset in the world,” Fieg reflects at the end of our interview, acknowledging that his appreciation for time has increased with age.

And while Fieg has a lot of valuable assets in his collection, time is the one that holds the most value. Time is the true luxury.