Parmigiani Rocks at SIHH

Boutique brand Parmigiani Fleurier’s watches may get less hype than some of the giant SIHH brands, but they do not take a back seat in terms of watchmaking innovation and sheer beauty of finish. Take the Toric Quaestor Labyrinthe, a minute repeater with a dial designed as a tribute to the maze-like pattern of Greek mythology. Two innovations enhance the quality of sound in this repeater. The in-house manual winding movement PF357 includes a reinforcement to steady the mechanism: the pawl of the chime is linked to the case, ensuring that the sound reverberates without any interference from the movement’s vibrations. It also has an innovative flywheel regulator which, apart from ensuring a constant supply of energy to the spring, clarifies the sound so that there is less humming evident from the movement, and it activates a safety catch to prevent damage while setting. The labyrinth motif is created by layering an openworked white gold piece over a background of Burmese jade. The case itself is detailed in a beautiful coin-edge pattern. Like all leather straps on Parmigiani watches, this one was made by Hermès. Only five pieces will be made, each priced at $550,000.

Officially, the brand doesn’t make sports watches; it makes SATs (Sports Activity Timekeepers), but the new Pershing chronographs in the CBF collection (in partnership with the Brazilian football club), are pretty darn sporty. Even the beautiful côtes de Genève” guilloché dial (mother-of-pearl on the ladies’ version) – and of course those beautiful signature Parmigiani teardrop lugs – can’t hide the purpose of this ¼-second chronograph.

For some brands, the traditional art of marquetry is translated into equally traditional motifs, such as floral and bestiary themes. And those are nice, especially at the hands of Cartier and Van Cleef. Parmigiani, however, takes a refreshingly pop-culture approach to marquetry in the Tonda Woodstock. The American-flag emblazoned guitar motif, a tribute to the famous 1969 music festival held in Woodstock, New York, is centered by the tourbillon escapement. There is also a UK version, completing the collection as a tribute to the world’s two most influential countries in the world of rock ’n’ roll music. Rock on Parmigiani