It’s Official: These Are The Best Timepieces From Geneva Watch Days 2024

After a relatively quiet summer, it’s that time of year again for the watch industry to kick into high gear. Just four short months after Watches & Wonders, Geneva Watch Days 2024 has made a major splash with more brands than ever exhibiting. This means more new watches — a win-win.

Following Geneva Watch Days, it can be challenging to distill all the incredible new models released down to the best. This year, a whopping 53 brands exhibited at the tradeshow, up from just 39 last year. What was once a more low-key and intimate affair coming off summer holiday and easing into autumn is quickly growing to the scale and prominence of spring’s major Watches & Wonders fair. Here, some of the biggest names in watchmaking have set the stage for what we can expect to see through the end of the year in terms of new offerings, and the answer is something versatile and highly wearable. From Moser’s collab with Studio Underd0g to Bvlgari’s most complicated model yet, here are eight of the timepieces we loved most at Geneva Watch Days. 

Bvlgari

This Geneva Watch Days, Bvlgari came to deliver with a total of seven new timepieces, including three chiming models, three new high jewelry Serpenti pieces, and an exciting new collaboration with Fender in honor of the monumental 70th anniversary of the guitar maker’s most iconic instrument: the Stratocaster. The selection of chiming watches includes an ultra-thin minute repeater within the Octo Finissimo family and a combination minute repeater and tourbillon within the Octo Roma family. Still, the piece de resistance is the Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon, the brand’s most complex watch to date. On the flip side of Bvlgari’s catalog, we get three new interpretations of the brand’s emblematic Serpenti secret watch, each gem set and more stunning than the next. Finally, Bvlgari teamed up with Fender for a limited edition co-branded timepiece that comes individually in a run of 1200 pieces along with 70 sets, including the watch and a Fender Custom Shop Limited Edition Bulgari Stratocaster guitar.

De Bethune

De Bethune presented two highly wearable variations of two of its most beloved models: the DB28xs Steel Wheels and the DB28xs Aérolite. Both watches boast sweet spot sizing at 39mm. With the DB28xs Steel Wheels, you get the hallmarks of the DB28 line, like an open-worked dial rendered in a lightweight titanium build. Alternatively, the DB28xs Aérolite combines the best of models like the DB28xs Starry Seas and DB28XP Météorite models with a meteorite dial given De Bethue’s signature blue treatment along with a random guilloche pattern. 

Daniel Roth

Daniel Roth continues to build on the founder’s legacy with its follow-up to the limited edition Tourbillon Souscription in yellow gold released in 2023. For Geneva Watch Days 2024, the brand debuted a new rose gold iteration with subtle updates. Here, you get the instantly recognizable Daniel Roth design language, namely the trademark double-ellipse case, this time in warm rose gold. In addition, you’ll notice a new linear guilloche pattern on the dial, reworked lugs, and thinner proportions. The slim profile was achieved thanks to the DR001 caliber that is now visible through an exhibition caseback.

H.Moser & Cie

Moser is building a reputation at Geneva Watch Days for its outstanding collaborations. Last year, we saw the Maison team up with MB&F to unveil a truly one-of-a-kind creation for the Only Watch charity auction. This year, the brand was full of surprises, launching a pair of watches in collaboration with Studio Underd0g. With a shared passion for watchmaking that pushes the bounds of conventionality, this duo from opposite ends of the high-end watch spectrum introduced a pair of timepieces inspired by passion fruit: the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit and the 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit.

Girard-Perregaux 

Girard-Perregaux (GP) unveiled two new timepieces at Geneva Watch Days. With its latest offerings, it extends the brand’s heritage within its iconic bridges collection. First, the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges builds on the model released just a few years ago in 2021 with a slew of subtle updates that make the watch more versatile and wearable. In addition, GP presents the La Esmeralda Tourbillon a Secret Eternity Edition Honey. Here, you’ll notice the bridges rendered in gold against a stunning grand feu enamel dial. 

Jacob & Co.

At Geneva Watch Days, Jacob & Co. took the opportunity to celebrate the fifth anniversary of its iconic Oil Pump watch, first launched in 2019. As we’ve seen with many new releases at the fair, wearability has been a focus, and this reigns true even for a bold brand like Jacob & Co. With the new manually wound JCAM53 caliber equipped with a single-axis flying tourbillon, the brand was able to achieve a more compact and wearable form factor without compromising the watch’s captivating visual appeal.

Oris

Oris also presented two new models, including a new Aquis Chronograph as well as a Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition. Following the release of the new Aquis Date collection at Watches & Wonders, the Aquis Chronograph offers a classic three-register layout with optimal legibility. In addition, you’ll notice the case and bezel have a lighter profile, and the bracelet has been more finely tapered. Along with the chrono, Oris presents its latest collaboration with France’s Ligue de Football Professionnel (LFP) and its charity partner CNAPE, the country’s National Convention of Child Protection Associations. The watch boasts a number of special features inspired by CNAPE, namely the playful typeface mimicking a child’s handwriting. 

MB&F

MB&F came to Geneva Watch Days with two timekeepers: the latest addition to the M.A.D.1.S. series and the latest addition to its “Machines” lineup, an incredible table clock designed collaboratively with the famed clockmaker L’Epee. For its wristwatch offering, we get the fifth model in the M.A.D.1.S. lineup, marking the brand’s more accessible collection of timepieces. In line with the biggest trend we saw at the fair – wearability – the “s” stands for “slim,” achieved by the first ever Swiss-made movement to appear in the series. MB&F also presented its 15th collaboration with L’Epee, the Albatross, which is by far the brand’s most technically audacious clock to date.