Haute Time Talks About The Latest Watches With Watches of Switzerland’s Executive VP David Hurley

Photo Credit: Beth Walsh photography

While some brands were fortunate to already introduce new watches priod to the Covid-19 pandemic, many where caught in the middle of it. To cope with this, Watches & Wonders took their fair digital, while other brands, like Grand Seiko, launched their novelties utilizing new technologies like augmented reality. Haute Time had the privilege of talking with David Hurley, Executive Vice-President of Watches of Switzerland, as he gives us a candid insight into some of his favorites among the recent introductions;

Grand Seiko
It’s been 60 years since the first Grand Seiko watch was revealed, and in celebration of the anniversary, new executions of that watch have been introduced in platinum, 18ct yellow gold, and titanium. Since Watches of Switzerland’s arrival in the US, we’ve been privileged to stock Grand Seiko in our stores and we really appreciate their cool, classic designs, precision, and unbelievable attention to detail. The case polishing – a technique called Zaratsu or blade polishing – is particularly amazing on the hi-grade titanium version, which is my favorite of the three. The on-trend blue dial lends a slightly more contemporary feel to this version as opposed to the lighter dials on the two precious metal models. All are closely allied to the style of the original but the case size has grown by 3mm to 38mm which is more in line with today’s taste. Powered by the 9S64 mechanical movement, the watch has a substantial 72-hour power reserve and +5 / -3 seconds a day accuracy, making for great timekeeping performance. Priced at $8,000 in titanium, $26,000 in 18ct, and $38,000 in platinum it’s a small price to pay for a watch that recreates the start of Grand Seiko’s incredible history.

Omega
This year sees the release of the 25th James bond film, “No Time to Die” and Omega has reprised its role as the super spy’s watch of choice. The brand launched the new non-limited edition Omega Seamaster Diver 300m C-axial Master Chronometer 42mm 007 edition. The watch has been built with military needs in mind and included input from the film’s star Daniel Craig. The timepiece includes a series of codes adorning the Naiad lock case back: ‘0552’ for Navy personnel, ‘923 7697’ for a divers watch, the letter ‘A’ signifies a watch with a screw-down crown. ‘007’ is Bond’s signature agent no and ‘62’ signifies the year of the first James Bond film, “Dr No.” This divers watch adds to credibility of both the character and the Omega brand as the spy was originally in the Navy. There’s a lot of detail to consider here.

Omega has delivered a timepiece that has both a contemporary and authentic feel, with its retro-inspired sapphire crystal dome, over the vintage-looking tropical patina dial. The 42mm case is available on a titanium mesh bracelet or a NATO strap in dark brown, grey, and beige.  The bracelet model retails at $9,100 and the strap version at $8,100. Nothing has been overlooked by Omega with this model, it is both on brand for them and perfect for Mr. Bond himself.

Tag Heuer
After 18 months in design and production, the eagerly anticipated third generation of Tag Connected watches has been launched, and it was worth the wait. The Tag Heuer Connected watch is a unique combination of the refinement and elegance of a chronograph, an inspired timepiece crafted in the purest watchmaking tradition with a state-of-the-art, custom-designed digital experience geared towards performance. The juxtaposition of these two elements is a signature of Tag and there is no other brand in today’s luxury market that delivers both horology and technology with the credibility that this Brand does.

The watches are bold, with a 45mm case in either steel or titanium, and are inspired by the brand’s timekeeping and watchmaking heritage combined with timeless design codes. As one would expect, Tag offers the opportunity for many personalization functions to customize your own model.

We are excited about this collection as it offers a strong and versatile timepiece designed to enhance the wearers individual lifestyle. The navigation has been refined so the product is as intuitive and easy to use as possible. It can be programmed to highlight individual preferences including, activity progress, notifications, weather, and more, directly on the watch or from the new TAG Heuer mobile companion app, which will introduce new designs regularly. And let’s be honest – who does not want that in their life.

Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin had one of the most spectacular launches this year with Égérie, a ladies-only collection of sophisticated and intricately designed watches – the first entirely new line for women from the brand in decades. They are inspired by haute couture and are incredibly elegant, featuring a very cool interplay of textures and intertwined shapes that resemble the pleating on a gown or dress.

A modern interpretation of aesthetic codes cherished by Vacheron Constantin, each Égérie timepiece has an off-center subsidiary dial, an element the brand has been offering since the early 19th century. Égérie has made the display of these two intertwined circles its signature touch. The date or moon-phase integration is thus part of a subtle diagonal line formed by the Vacheron Constantin logo and the crown daringly taking its place between 1 and 2 o’clock, we find this both stylish and playful.

This collection is exclusively dedicated to the feminine sensibility, and the new collection draws its refinement from the world of Haute Couture and horology, this is the only ladies-only pillar in the entire collection today which highlights how this traditional watch house is really thinking about their clients and their needs, we’re not just seeing a gentlemen’s watch in a reduced case size or with gems added, this has clearly been thought through by Vacheron, looking at what their collection offers and what’s missing from the market today.  It won’t be long before this design is uniquely recognisable as Vacheron Constantin.

Audemars Piguet
Before the watch buying public became smitten with the Royal Oak and the Offshore, AP produced many amazing watches and in a really smart move they’ve chosen to remind us of one of those in the form of the 1533 Chronograph from 1943. Unusually back then, the 1533 had three sub dials but was in line with other chronographs of the time. It was an elegant watch as those gorgeous teardrop-shaped lugs and art deco style number 12 will testify. The (Re)Master 01 edition faithfully reproduces those features, along with the red “45” on the minute sub-dial and even the original dial branding of “Audemars Piguet & Co, Geneve” a mark not seen on a watch since they moved to Le Brasuss decades ago. The watch is powered by the brands ultra-modern 70-hour flyback chronograph movement, that first saw the light of day in the CODE 1159. That there’s only 500 being made adds to its desirability and makes it a modern classic in every sense.

Breitling
Georges Kern often references the great depth of historical pieces that Breitling has in its back catalogue and the Top Time neatly falls into this category. The current Top Time, a web only exclusive and keenly priced at $4,990 reproduces the mid 1960’s two dial chronograph look that I love for the balance it gives the dial. The chrono “eyes” are highlighted by the classic “Zorro” mask which Breitling used on some Chronomat’s from the 1940’s. It’s a very distinctive look. The 41mm case size makes it a very wearable watch for most wrists, but with only 2,000 examples being produced you’ll need to be quick to get one.