Diamonds, Distinct Design & Dials: All the Novelties That Grand Seiko Presented at Watches and Wonders 2025

Technically and aesthetically compelling Grand Seiko novelties stopped Watches and Wonders 2025 guests in their tracks

Grand Seiko is renowned for its alluring nature-inspired dials, its exquisite proportions, and unique technical innovations. These definitive fortes of the brand were on full display at Watches and Wonders 2025.

The manufacture’s unwavering commitment to excellence has earned it numerous prestigious awards, including the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Men’s Watch Prize in 2021 for the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours, and the GPHG Chronometry Prize in 2022 for the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon.

At Watches & Wonders 2025, Grand Seiko introduced an array of enchanting novelties that celebrate the brand’s flair with gem-setting, Iwate’s official flower, and an unprecedented achievement in mechanical accuracy.

Tentagraph SLGC007

A GPHG 2023 nominee, the Grand Seiko Tentagraph returns with a blue embossed dial, inspired by the majestic Mount Iwate. The name “Tentagraph” comes from its Caliber 9SC5 movement, which operates at 10 beats per second—hence the “TEN-tagraph.” This high-precision, high-beat chronograph offers an impressive three-day power reserve and is rigorously tested for accuracy, ensuring it maintains +5 to -3 seconds per day.

Housed in titanium and maintaining the same 43.2mm case size as the 2023 model, this Tentagraph features a “Snow Blue” dial that’s much lighter than its navy blue predecessor. This gentle hue pays homage to the snow-capped peak of Mount Iwate that stands tall beside Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi workshop.

Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009

The acclaimed Tentagraph has also been reimagined in the Tokyo Lion case, which was first introduced in 2019, and the result is a masterclass in visual depth. This bold design, inspired by a lion’s paw, symbolizes Grand Seiko’s relentless pursuit of accuracy, durability and beauty. It’s the first time that Brilliant Hard Titanium has been incorporated into Grand Seiko’s Sport Collection.

This corrosion- and scratch-resistant titanium alloy is brighter than pure titanium, which does well to accentuate the contrasting brushed and Zaratsu-polished surfaces of the lion-inspired case. This robust design is complemented by a striped dial, meant to evoke “a lion’s mane waving in the wind”, and these waves are beautifully interspersed by recessed chronograph counters.

Spring Drive U.F.A. SLGB001 and SLGB003

Invented in 1977 by Seiko’s Yoshikazu Akahane, the Spring Drive is the definitive Grand Seiko innovation, which enables electrical energy to power a mechanical movement. After creating a manual-winding Spring Drive watch in 1999, Grand Seiko managed to create an automatic Spring Drive movement in 2004, which it named the 9R. And at Watches and Wonders 2025, Grand Seiko revealed that the new improved 9R is now more compact and accurate than ever before.

Grand Seiko fans may recall the V.F.A. (Very Fine Adjusted) series that debuted in 1969, known for its monthly accuracy of ±1 minute. Now, the U.F.A. (Ultra Fine Accuracy) series takes precision to new heights, offering an annual accuracy of ±20 seconds. This U.F.A. movement that drives the SLGB001 and SLGB003 is called the 9RB2 and is the most accurate wristwatch movement driven by a mainspring.

Grand Seiko has engraved this incredible achievement onto these watches’ oscillating weights. The plates and bridges below these rotors have been hand-finished with a variety of techniques, to reflect the forests of the Kirigamine Highlands that lie east of the Shinshu Studio, which is where these watches are made. The meticulously finished dials of these watches are meant to mimic these frost-covered forests too.

The high-precision calibre 9RB2 has been integrated with thermos-compensation technology, and was then rigorously tested in various temperatures, so as to ensure chronometric excellence in different environments. Its oscillator and sensor have been vacuum sealed to make them resistant to humidity, light and static electricity. Furthermore, the 9RB2 has a regulation switch that Grand Seiko after-sales staff can use to fine-tune it, should its accuracy ever diminish.

The 9RB2 is also a much more compact version of the 9R. Consequently, the SLGB001 and SLGB003 have case diameters of 37mm This makes them the smallest timepieces to ever house a 9R-type movement.

The SLGB003 features High-Intensity Titanium paired with a new three-step micro-adjustment clasp, while the SLGB001’s 950 platinum case is secured to a crocodile strap and limited to just 80 pieces.

SBGW323 Kiri

The SBGW323 Kiri belongs to the iconic 44GS series, which is known for sleek silhouettes and signature Zaratsu-polished surfaces that create an interplay of light and shadow. Driven by the 9S64 movement, this 36.5mm beauty features the Mount Iwate dial pattern, with a color inspired by the kiri (Empress Tree), the official flower of Iwate Prefecture.

SBGD223

One of the most eye-catching watches of the fair, the SBGD223 swathes Grand Seiko’s chronometric innovation with a brilliant shower of precious stones. Nestled in a 950 platinum case, the 9R01 movement provides 8 days of power reserve and is a special version of the Spring Drive created by the artisans at the Micro Artist Studio.

The SBGD223’s platinum case is enveloped by over 600 diamonds, complemented by black spinels, and limited to only 8 examples.