TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T: A Masterclass In Packing A Punch
In 2016 TAG Heuer took the world by surprise with a brand new watch in the Carrera collection. Christened Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T, this watch combined a chronograph with a flying tourbillon. The goal of TAG Heuer was to make this watch a gateway for enthusiasts who wanted a more complicated watch, as the brand gave it a very competitive price tag.
By Martin Green
Winding Down The Summer With The Richard Mille RM 67-02
As we enter September, the days are already noticeably shorter, and the sun is losing its power. Many try to hang on to the summer just a little bit longer, participating in activities that make summer always such an enjoyable time. A watch that shares the sentiment is the RM 67-02 by Richard Mille. While the brand has far more complicated creations, it is this time-only watch that in many ways represents the essence of what they are all about.
By Martin Green
Louis Vuitton Strengthens The Tambour Collection With Two Stunning New Chronographs
Louis Vuitton has always been a brand that marches to its own beat. This is especially true for their watch collection. You can never confuse one of their creations for anything else but a Louis Vuitton. They are not only highly original in terms of design, but also know how to capture the essence of the brand down to the last detail. This is also the case with the two chronographs that join the Tambour-collection, one of the signature designs of the brand.
By Martin Green
Watch of the Week: Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Power Reserve 14 Days
Does power reserve count as a complication? Technically not, but some watches seem to made to argue to difference. They are all about power reserve and afraid to show it. One of those watches is Hublot's Big Bang MP-11, which offers a power reserve of no less than 14-days and displays this in a theatrical way.
By Martin Green
A German Insight: Glashütte Original Senator Moon Phase Skeletonized Edition
For centuries the small town of Glashütte has been the epicenter of German watchmaking. While there are indeed plenty of similarities between their approach to watchmaking and that of the Swiss, there are also enough things different. This allowed a certain number of manufactures to find their niche and rise to new levels of greatness when the Berlin Wall came down, and East Germany was joined with West once more. Among them was Glashütte Original, who presents with a Senator Moon Phase Skeletonized Edition a German take on how a skeleton watch should look.
By Martin Green
Jacob & Co Opera Godfather: An Offer You Cannot Refuse
Few movies, if any, can live up to the status that The Godfather has achieved. This 1972 blockbuster, featuring Marlon Brando as Don Vito Corleone, also features one of the most memorable theme songs in history. It was written by Italian composer Giovanni "Nino" Rota, and its first few notes are enough to be recognized by people around the world. For Jacob & Co, the movie, but especially the music, was the inspiration for an exceptional watch.
By Martin Green
Cartier Privé Tonneau Skeleton Dual Time: The Ultimate Time-Traveller
The Tonneau is one of Cartier's oldest wrist-watch designs that are still in production today. It was launched in 1906, two years after the legendary Santos was introduced. Unlike the Santos, has the Tonneau spend most of its career outside of the limelight. In its early years, it was made in small numbers, often on request and as of 1998, it was part of the legendary CPCP-collection, which La Maison discontinued in 2008.
By Martin Green
The New Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Carbon3; A Supreme (De)light
Carbon has become an increasingly popular material for use in watchmaking these days but no other brand has taken this as far as Roger Dubuis. With the Excalibur Spider Carbon3, they present a watch which is not only equipped with a case and bracelet made from this material but incorporated it in the movement as well.
By Martin Green
Haute Complication: Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Retrograde
With its double-stepped bezel is Blancpain's Villeret collection not only instantly recognizable but also a true classic. Its details are subtle, but because of that, all the more powerful. Such a case also forms the perfect framework for the Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Retrograde, which takes the purity of the Villeret-design to the next level with a tantalizing combination complications.
By Martin Green
Zenith Defy El Primero 21; The Innovative Nature Of A Legend
In the world of watches is the El Primero a legend. With its frequency of 5Hz, you can measure the passing of time with 1/10th of a second precision. While this movement is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, the beauty is that Zenith never stopped with developing it. They not only added many complications over the years but also improved the movement itself. With the Defy El Primero 21, they fitted the movement with two escapements, one running at 5Hz and supporting the regular timekeeping of the watch, and one dedicated to the chronograph, running at 50Hz.
By Martin Green
Hublot Big Bang Unico Magic Sapphire; The Clear Advantage
Hublot is the undisputed king of sapphire cased watches, and for several reasons. First of all, they can create sapphire in different colors, like blue and yellow. Creating sapphire cases, in general, is still not an easy task. The few brands that offer sapphire cased watches usually only make about two dozen of them or so in a limited edition. However, this type of watches is probably the only one where being able to produce them in 'volume' is more difficult than making just a few. Hublot also doesn't do that with just a single watch but offers an entire collection of sapphire cased watches, of which all have shapes that are complex to make. This also goes for the Big Bang Unico Magic Sapphire, which offers the clear advantage of sapphire, to Hublot's signature watch.
By Martin Green
Haute Complication: Patek Philippe 5231J World Time
The World Time watch holds a very special position in both the history of Patek Philippe, as well as in their current collection. It is one of those watches that has become an icon, and the most desirable versions feature a Cloisonné enamel center. This year Patek Philippe launched an addition to their collection of World Time watches with the 5231J.
By Martin Green
Haute Complication: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
Steel is the new gold, and there is fierce competition among the top-tier Swiss brands to please clients with their sportive creations in this metal. For this Vacheron Constantin has the Overseas, a collection which was revamped in 2016. While the steel-cased time-only and chronograph versions might be the ones that are the most important regarding maintaining its market position in this field, there is also still a demand for more complicated versions, and also in precious metal, and Vacheron Constantin is happy to oblige to that with the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin.
By Martin Green
Watch of the Week: Glashütte Original Sixties Annual Edition
Glashütte Original shows us what a difference a color can make with the new Sixties Annual Edition; bright orange that spreads out over the dial and turns almost black at the edges. As if the color is not eye-catching enough already, the texture of the dial, which looks like raindrops hitting your windshield while driving on the highway, adds even more to it. To create this effect, Glashütte Original is using original equipment from the 1960s in their dial manufacture. Here a 60-tonne press gives each dial blank its low-relief pattern.
By Martin Green
Haute Complication: Graff MasterGraff GyroGraff Endangered Species
In the world of complicated watches, the GyroGraff collection by Graff has created its niche. While this is in part to its complicated movement, it is also because they often feature intricate dials and the most stunning gemstone settings. This is also the case with the latest creations within this collection, dedicated to endangered species.
By Martin Green
Watch of the Week: Hublot Big Bang Unico Sang Bleu II
Hublot simply has a knack for partnerships. The brand is not afraid to share the spotlight with somebody else who contributes to a special watch. Interesting enough are these never people from the watch industry but outsiders, who made name and fame in a completely different field. Here also comes into play the other aspect what makes it that Hublot excels at watches created in a partnership; they go all in! Not just a different dial color, but a completely different watch, yet with a generous dose of the familiar Hublot DNA of course.
By Martin Green
Haute Complication: Bovet Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter One
Over the years Bovet has made quite a name for itself by creating extraordinary, and often very complicated, movements and wrap them in a very strong design that can only be mistaken for one of this brand. This has resulted in a very clear signature style and as a result, a strong DNA. However, as much as Bovet doesn't like to walk within the boundaries of traditional watchmaking, they also don't get too comfortable with their designs. Instead of repeating the same thing over and over again, also in here, they like to experiment a bit, and of this is the Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter One a perfect example.
By Martin Green