Cartier Reinvents The Iconic Tank Française Timepiece

By: Adrienne Faurote & Stephanie DiGuiseppe

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Cartier

The Cartier Tank has withstood the test of time, continuing to evolve throughout the years and adapt to a modern era while also adhering to the heritage design of the timepiece. Perhaps one of the most iconic Cartier Tanks, the Tank Française, made its coveted debut in the ‘90s as a metal bracelet in perfect harmony with the case, adding a sense of sophistication to the already-beloved Tank repertoire. With a captivating allure, the hardware quickly became a glamorous asset that stands the test of time. Today, Cartier reinvents the Tank Française with a brand new version that embodies the design codes of the original while also giving it a fresh take.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Cartier

The new Tank Française collection offers a total of seven references, introducing a new larger case in steel as well as a range of small and medium sizes in yellow gold and steel — some adorned with diamonds and some without. The 2023 debut equates to an equal elegance and glamour to its 1996 counterpart with only what feels like a subtly modern tweak. Almost 25 years after its creation, the bracelet, whose links fit perfectly together, has been redesigned by the Maison’s designers to create a curve that is as pure as it is ergonomic and versatile for all wrists. At first glance, the other design updates are subtle — from the slightly-enlarged case size and brushed satin finish to the integration of the crown into the case and the numerals applied onto the dial — yet still impactful, creating a sophisticated, sportier look for the Tank Française.

The sunray watch dial with Roman numerals is highlighted by the shine of its relief, while the bracelet forms a compact, perfectly flexible chain, a dense mesh of links that remain and move as one. Inside, the new large steel model is equipped with an automatic mechanical movement.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Cartier

“The new Tank Francaise reflects a creative conviction. Like rediscovering the raw nature of a cut stone, it was about capturing the watch’s radical shape, simplifying its essential lines and stripping them of all embellishment to return to the myth’s origin,” notes Cartier’s Jewelry and Watchmaking Creative Director Marie-Laure Cerede. Indeed, it’s refreshing to see an incredibly subtle modern update to such a heritage timepiece.