Bvlgari Breaks Another Record With The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon

Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon breaks yet another record, coming in at the world’s thinnest tourbillon. Unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2025, this 1.85 mm marvel clinches the Maison’s 10th world record for ultra-thin watchmaking, cementing its reign as a horological pioneer. By marrying a skeletonized tourbillon with extreme finesse, Bvlgari redefines what’s possible in modern watchmaking—ultimately, becoming a testament to a decade-long odyssey that began in 2014 and continues to push boundaries. Here’s our deep dive into this Roman-Swiss triumph.

The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is unmistakably Bvlgari. Its 40 mm octagonal case, inspired by the coffered ceilings of Rome’s Basilica of Maxentius and Constantine, channels the Eternal City’s architectural grandeur into a modernist frame. Crafted from microbead-frosted titanium, the bezel, case middle, and lugs exude a monochromatic grey elegance—a signature of the Octo Finissimo line that prioritizes purity over ostentation.

What sets this watch apart visually is its skeletonized movement, a masterclass in transparency. Bvlgari has elevated skeletonization beyond mere aesthetics, using it to maximize light diffusion through the BVF 900 tourbillon caliber. The result? A hypnotic interplay of finishes: a polished bezel flange slope, rhodium-plated tourbillon balance and inertia blocks, and a sunburst-finished tourbillon bridge. Every component is a study in contrasts, balancing mechanical intricacy with refined artistry.

The dial—sandblasted brass with an anthracite DLC coating—features rhodium-plated hour and minute hands, a return to a traditional two-hand layout that distinguishes it from predecessors like the Octo Finissimo Ultra and Ultra COSC, which used regulator-style displays. This shift enhances legibility without compromising the watch’s minimalist ethos. Paired with a 1.5 mm titanium bracelet (including the folding clasp), the Ultra Tourbillon feels like an extension of the wrist—sleek, lightweight, and uncompromisingly contemporary.

Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari’s Executive Director of Watch Design, sums it up: “It’s not just about the finest design but achieving a precise execution that tells the story of the Octo Finissimo series.” Every detail—from the geometric engravings on the circular-grained steel ratchet to the planar stainless-steel crowns at 8 and 3 o’clock—reflects Bvlgari’s commitment to excellence.

At its core, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is a feat of engineering. Measuring just 1.85 mm thick, it’s the world’s thinnest tourbillon—a record previously unimaginable for a complication invented in the 18th century to combat gravity’s effects on precision. The manually wound BVF 900 caliber beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and delivers a 42-hour power reserve, proving that ultra-thin doesn’t mean fragile.

This achievement builds on Bvlgari’s storied pursuit of thinness, sparked in 2014 with the original Octo Finissimo Tourbillon (1.95 mm thick). Since then, the Maison has racked up records—thinnest minute repeater (2016), thinnest automatic (2017), thinnest perpetual calendar (2021)—and over 60 awards, including the coveted Aiguille d’Or at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). The Ultra Tourbillon is the latest chapter, backed by eight patents covering innovations like the integrated case-and-plate design, differential display, and a novel bracelet structure.

The secret lies in its materials and construction. A tungsten carbide main plate provides rigidity where traditional brass would falter, while titanium keeps the weight featherlight (the watch tips the scales at just 47 grams with the bracelet). Designing in two dimensions rather than three—a radical departure from convention—required Bvlgari’s R&D team to rethink watchmaking fundamentals. “Each record has been a stepping stone,” says CEO Jean-Christophe Babin. “It’s about redefining what’s possible.”

The skeletonized tourbillon, visible at 6 o’clock, is the beating heart of this creation. Stripped to its essentials, it demands flawless execution—any imperfection would be glaringly apparent. Bvlgari delivers, with a movement that’s as reliable as it is mesmerizing.

The Octo line, launched in 2012, quickly became a modern icon, but it was the 2014 Octo Finissimo Tourbillon that put Bvlgari on the ultra-thin map. That watch’s 1.95 mm flying tourbillon movement was a revelation, sparking a decade of innovation that’s made Octo Finissimo the most awarded collection of the 21st century. From the 1.8 mm Octo Finissimo Ultra in 2022—celebrated in Rome’s Piazza della Rotonda—to this latest 1.85 mm tourbillon, Bvlgari has elevated thinness to a watchmaking complication in its own right.

This isn’t just about breaking records; it’s about legacy. Since its founding in 1884, Bvlgari has drawn inspiration from Rome’s splendor, blending Italian creativity with Swiss precision since joining LVMH 25 years ago. The Ultra Tourbillon embodies that duality—a Roman jeweler turned horological powerhouse.

Wearing the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is an experience in restraint and sophistication. At 40 mm, it’s modestly sized for a modern luxury watch, but its razor-thin profile makes it feel almost weightless. The microbead-frosted titanium bracelet, at just 1.5 mm thick, hugs the wrist with a suppleness that belies its technical complexity. The folding clasp integrates seamlessly, ensuring comfort over long wear.

The monochromatic grey palette is understated yet striking, appealing to collectors who value subtlety over flash. Legibility is excellent, thanks to the rhodium-plated hands against the anthracite dial, though the skeletonized design prioritizes aesthetics over instant readability—a fair trade for such a piece. The dual crowns (winding at 8 o’clock, time-setting at 3 o’clock) are intuitive, though their minimal protrusion requires a delicate touch.

At 42 hours, the power reserve is respectable for a manual-wound tourbillon, though daily winding adds a ritualistic charm. This isn’t a watch for the casual wearer—it’s for the connoisseur who appreciates the artistry of its perpetual motion and the audacity of its thinness.

The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is a horological tour de force. It’s not the thinnest watch ever—that title still belongs to the 1.8 mm Octo Finissimo Ultra—but as the thinnest tourbillon, it achieves something arguably more impressive: marrying a complex complication with extreme finesse. Its design is a love letter to Rome, its engineering a testament to Swiss mastery, and its legacy a benchmark for the industry.

Specifications:

• Reference: 104313
• Movement: BVF 900 manual-winding tourbillon, ultra-thin mechanical movement
• Case: 40 mm sandblasted titanium with tungsten carbide main plate
• Bracelet: 1.5 mm sandblasted titanium with integrated folding buckle
• Dial: Sandblasted brass with anthracite DLC coating, rhodium-plated hands
• Functions: Hours, minutes
• Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
• Power Reserve: 42 hours
• Thickness: 1.85 mm