Louis Vuitton Introduces The Escale Platinum Watch With Guilloché & Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Louis Vuitton Introduces The Escale Platinum Watch With Guilloché & Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Haute Time
By Haute Time December 26, 2024

The Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum watch is a true celebration of artistry and craftsmanship — creating an artistic horological masterpiece, a piece unique, if you will. Inspired by Louis Vuitton’s legendary trunks, this limited-edition masterpiece serves as a canvas for two of the most revered artisanal techniques: grand feu enamel and guilloché.

With only 50 pieces crafted, each watch is an exclusive creation designed to captivate collectors and connoisseurs of fine watchmaking. The journey of each Escale Platinum begins with a solid gold disc, chosen for its unmatched durability and refinement. This blank dial is first milled to create a raised edge, forming a delicate lip that serves as a barrier for the enamel.

Louis Vuitton Paris closeup
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

The recessed center of the dial is then engraved using a hand-operated rose engine, a process known as guilloché. This intricate technique, unchanged since the 18th century, produces a mesmerizing radial pattern that reflects the exceptional skill of a master guillocheur.

To enhance the guilloché detail, the dial is adorned with grand feu enamel, a technique synonymous with brilliance and resilience. The enamel pigments, composed of finely ground glass, are expertly mixed with water and oil to create a translucent and richly colored finish. Using the champlevé method, the enamel is painted onto the engraved sections of the dial. The process of firing the enamel in an oven at temperatures exceeding 800℃ fuses it to the gold base, creating a surface of unparalleled depth and vibrancy.

The craftsmanship doesn’t stop at the visible surface. The reverse side of the dial features counter enamel, a technique that prevents deformation during the high-temperature firing process. This hidden layer bears the engraved inscription “Guilloché Main, Émail Grand Feu,” a subtle message from the artisans to the watchmaker who may service the piece in the future.

Louis Vuitton Paris dial closeup
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Each dial undergoes multiple rounds of painting and firing to achieve the perfect finish, showcasing the guilloché pattern through the translucent enamel in a method known as flinqué enamel. Achieving the flawless finish of the enamel dial involves gently polishing it with diamond paste until it achieves a mirror-like surface.

Despite its traditional roots, the final step involves cutting-edge technology. A precision laser is used to drill 12 fine holes into the enamel for the hour markers. This innovative approach allows Louis Vuitton’s craftsmen to securely rivet solid 18-carat white gold indices to the fragile enamel surface, a rare feat in watchmaking. The hour and minute hands of the Escale Platinum are also crafted from 18-carat white gold, while the seconds hand is made from lightweight titanium to optimize energy efficiency. Encased in polished platinum, the watch exudes sophistication. Its signature “rivet” lugs pay homage to Louis Vuitton’s iconic trunks, seamlessly blending heritage with contemporary design.

The heart of the Escale Platinum is the LFT023 caliber, a self-winding mechanical movement developed in collaboration with La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton and Le Cercle des Horlogers. Certified by the Geneva Observatory for precision, this movement operates within -4/+6 seconds per day.

Louis Vuitton Paris back
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

With 147 components, 32 jewels, and a 22-carat rose gold micro-rotor, the LFT023 offers a 50-hour power reserve and a remarkable 28,800 vibrations per hour, ensuring unparalleled accuracy. Through the sapphire crystal case back, the movement’s intricate details are on full display. A discreet rose gold plaque bears the serial number of each watch, emphasizing the exclusivity of this limited-edition timepiece.

This attention to detail extends to the bracelet, which is crafted from blue calf leather with black leather lining, and a platinum pin buckle engraved with Louis Vuitton’s signature. Every element of the Escale Platinum is designed to reflect Louis Vuitton’s commitment to excellence. From the satin-finished case sides to the anti-reflective sapphire crystal, each component enhances the watch’s aesthetic and functional appeal. The watch’s 39mm diameter and slim profile of just 10.34mm with domed glass ensure it sits comfortably on the wrist while exuding elegance.

Louis Vuitton Paris crafting
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

This masterpiece is more than just a timepiece; it is a testament to Louis Vuitton’s legacy of combining artistry with innovation. Since its founding in 1854, Louis Vuitton has redefined luxury by blending practicality with elegance. The Escale Platinum embodies this philosophy, transforming traditional watchmaking techniques into a modern work of art.

Louis Vuitton Paris parts
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

The use of grand feu enamel and guilloché craftsmanship connects the Escale Platinum to the golden age of watchmaking, while its platinum case and innovative laser-drilled enamel indices push the boundaries of modern horology. Each watch is a unique creation, reflecting the maison’s dedication to preserving traditional techniques while embracing technological advancements.