Watch Of The Week: The New Ulysse Nardin Freak X Enamel Seddiqi

Two years ago, I recall writing it was the ‘Year of the Freak.’ Fast forward to today, I stand corrected: it’s been the years of the Freak at Ulysse Nardin. In fact, today, Ulysse Nardin just came out with yet another Freak, the Freak X Enamel Seddiqi. This timepiece celebrates the enduring partnership between Ulysse Nardin and Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the leading luxury watch retailer in the Middle East. Limited to 30 pieces, this avant-garde creation showcases the brand’s signature blend of métiers d’art techniques and state-of-the-art watchmaking.

The Freak X Enamel Seddiqi design takes inspiration from the Freak collection, the revolutionary line introduced by Ulysse Nardin in 2001 that broke new ground with silicon technology, eliminating traditional hands, dials, and crowns. Building on this legacy, the Freak X Enamel Seddiqi pushes the boundaries of watchmaking, combining innovative movement architecture with traditional craftsmanship.

The “Yas Blue” enamel hour disc is at the heart of this limited-edition watch, a striking homage to the vibrant evening sky over the Arabian Gulf. Crafted by skilled artisans at Ulysse Nardin’s Donzé Cadrans Manufacture in Le Locle, the dial’s creation involves a complex, meticulous process.

The dial begins with a guilloché gold disc that creates a geometric wave pattern, adding depth and dimension. Four layers of water-based enamel are then painstakingly applied to the guilloché surface, with each layer fired at 800°C to achieve the distinctive electric blue hue. The enamel process is filled with risk; even the slightest error can cause the enamel to bubble or crack, requiring the entire process to start over. The result is a glossy, translucent fondant enamel finish, making each piece a true work of art.

Underneath the stunning enamel dial lies the Caliber UN-230 Manufacture, a testament to Ulysse Nardin’s innovative spirit. This automatic movement offers a 72-hour power reserve and features a carousel flying tourbillon with an oversized silicon oscillator and escapement. True to the Freak’s unconventional nature, the movement itself serves as the minute hand, completing a full rotation every 60 minutes, while a pointer on the hour disc indicates the hours. The use of silicon—pioneered by Ulysse Nardin in 2001—remains a key element of the Freak X Enamel Seddiqi. Silicon’s lightweight, frictionless, and anti-magnetic properties make it the ideal choice for precision mechanics, further enhancing the watch’s performance and durability.

The Freak X Enamel Seddiqi is housed in a 43 mm grey titanium case, which adds to its contemporary aesthetic while ensuring robust protection for its intricate movement. The case is complemented by a black rubber ballistic strap with white stitching, offering comfort and durability.

The Freak series has always been defined by its radical design, pioneering materials, and technical innovation. From its inception, the Freak has redefined mechanical watchmaking by abandoning the conventional dial-and-hand structure in favor of a movement directly displaying the time. Its use of silicon as a movement material was a groundbreaking step that set a new standard for precision, reliability, and resistance to environmental factors. Over two decades later, the Freak X remains a canvas for creative expression and horological advancement. With models like the Freak One, the Freak S, and now the Freak X Enamel Seddiqi, Ulysse Nardin remains at the forefront of contemporary watchmaking, consistently pushing the boundaries of design and technology.

Available exclusively through Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons in the UAE, the Freak X Enamel Seddiqi is a rare fusion of Ulysse Nardin’s avant-garde watchmaking and the cultural vibrancy of the Middle East.