Audemars Piguet Unveils New Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Models

Audemars Piguet has introduced three new references of the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked in a 41 mm size, showcasing a diverse range of materials and aesthetics. These exquisite models, available in stainless steel, black ceramic, and 18-carat yellow gold, highlight the intricate self-winding Caliber 3132. This openworked architecture not only underscores the artisanship of Audemars Piguet’s craftsmen but also adds a new pink-gold tone to two of the timepieces, offering a rich interplay of light. These latest iterations seamlessly blend technical precision with traditional skills, promising to grace the wrists with unmatched elegance and finesse.

The Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked line now includes three new 41 mm models, each crafted from different materials. The stainless steel, black ceramic, and 18-carat yellow gold cases and bracelets are adorned with the collection’s signature finishing techniques, alternating between polished and satin-brushed surfaces. This design accentuates the Royal Oak’s geometric elegance.

The openworked movement and inner bezel of the stainless steel and black ceramic versions feature a new pink-gold tone, adding warmth and vibrancy while highlighting the precision craftsmanship of its components. The pink gold screws on the bezel complement this hue, creating a harmonious aesthetic. The 18-carat white gold hour markers and hands ensure readability on the stainless-steel version, while the ceramic model features blackened rhodium hour markers and hands. The seconds indication and “Audemars Piguet” signature are printed in black on the inner bezel. Notably, the black ceramic model is a limited edition of 150 pieces, as indicated on its titanium and sapphire caseback.

In contrast, the 18-carat yellow gold reference combines the luxurious yellow gold with an anthracite grey openworked movement. The matching inner bezel, featuring the seconds scale and “Audemars Piguet” logo in white, enhances the two-tone design. The yellow gold hour markers and luminescent hands ensure optimal visibility, even in low-light conditions.

These new models are powered by the Calibre 3132, a self-winding movement with a double-balance wheel mechanism. This patented innovation, introduced by Audemars Piguet in 2016, enhances the watch’s precision and stability. The dual balance wheels and hairsprings, assembled on the same axis, oscillate in perfect harmony. The double balance wheel, visible from both sides of the case, offers a rare view of the watch’s beating heart. The openworked bridges reveal components of the gear train, cut using advanced technologies like CNC machining, then hand-finished to achieve the desired shape. The polished V-angles reflect the meticulous craftsmanship, achievable only by hand.

The openworked oscillating weight, matching the case color for the steel and yellow gold models or harmonized with the pink gold movement for the black ceramic version, completes the contrasting aesthetics of these references.

Openworking, a specialty of Audemars Piguet since the 1930s, involves removing as much material as possible from the mainplate and bridges to let light through, showcasing the beauty and intricacy of the mechanism without compromising functionality. This art requires masterful watchmaking skills and extensive knowledge of materials and finishing techniques.

In the 1970s, a group of young Audemars Piguet watchmakers, inspired by their elders, revived the art of openworking. Under the visionary leadership of then-Director Georges Golay, they undertook the ambitious task of creating 100 openworked Calibre 2120 movements. The first model was delivered in 1973, with more following in subsequent years. By the 1980s, the workshop employed a dozen craftspeople dedicated to this craft.

Initially, the calibers of the Royal Oak collection remained hidden inside the cases. However, the advent of quartz technology prompted the industry to highlight the beauty of mechanical movements. Openworking debuted in the Royal Oak collection in the form of a pendant in 1981, followed by an ultra-thin perpetual calendar model in 1986. The 1990s saw the true integration of openworking into the collection, with numerous models showcasing this refined art.

Today, the Royal Oak collection includes over fifty openworked references, each reflecting years of passion and expertise. These new 41 mm models breathe new life into this meticulous art, blending it with a modern aesthetic.