Watch Of The Week: The New Rolex Perpetual 1908
This year, during Watches & Wonders, Rolex introduced a new, sophisticated (yet fun) model to the Perpetual 1908 collection, which debuted in 2023 in Geneva. I have to admit, I was expecting some sort of continuation of the 1908 collection (due to its positive feedback last year), but I did not expect to almost immediately fall in love with the new Perpetual 1908. It’s not that I didn’t love the original 1908 line, but I definitely tend to lean more toward the sportier side of Rolex — always being keen on the GMTs, Sky-Dwellers, and so on.
Back to the 2024 model. Crafted in 950 platinum, it features an ice blue dial adorned with a guilloché rice-grain motif, creating a captivating visual experience. This dial showcases a unique rosette-like, three-dimensional pattern that starts from the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock and spans the entire surface, encircled by a filet sauté with a crimped guilloché pattern.
This model highlights Rolex’s commitment to maintaining its heritage in watchmaking while injecting contemporary elements. The intricate guilloché on the dial, achieved through engine turning, a meticulous technique that carves intricate patterns into the metal, showcases the blend of traditional methods and the brand’s technological prowess. The dial features familiar elements such as the Arabic numerals 3, 9, and 12, faceted hour markers, and classic hands, all set against the new textured background. The watch is paired with a luxurious brown alligator leather strap, secured with a sophisticated Dualclasp, a double folding clasp that enhances both comfort and style.
Powering the Perpetual 1908 is the caliber 7140, a movement at the forefront of horological engineering. This caliber is not only a testament to the watch’s refined aesthetics but also to its high functionality, featuring bridges adorned with Rolex Côtes de Genève and a distinctively cut-out oscillating weight. It supports the display of hours, minutes, and small seconds with impeccable precision.
True to its roots, the Perpetual 1908 draws inspiration from one of the earliest Rolex models equipped with the Perpetual rotor. Named after the year Rolex was registered in Switzerland, the ‘1908’ reflects the spirit of the Perpetual collection, which is dedicated to celebrating the art of watchmaking. This collection revives traditional horological styles infused with Rolex’s signature expertise and aesthetic sensibility.
The watch’s case measures 39 mm and features a design that balances classic and contemporary touches. The middle case lugs are gently chamfered, and the bezel is artistically divided with the lower part featuring elegant fluting and the upper part presenting a smooth dome. The case is topped with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal that has an anti-reflective coating, enhancing both visibility and durability. Waterproof up to 50 meters, the case is meticulously crafted to protect the intricate movement within.
The watch is fitted with a rich brown leather strap, becoming the perfect, strategic color pairing to the ice blue on the dial. Finally, as with all Rolex watches, the Perpetual 1908 comes with the Superlative Chronometer certification, an assurance of its exceptional performance on the wrist.