The Biggest Predictions For Watches & Wonders 2024

Arriving about a week later than usual, April is ushering in what may be the most exciting week in Geneva for the watch industry: Watches & Wonders. As many of us editors are currently tight-lipped about what’s to emerge, there is still quite a lot of uncertainty surrounding next week. I like to refer to it as the Watches and Wonders jitters — the weeks leading up to Geneva where your mind is constantly consumed by thoughts like, “What is Rolex really going to do this year?” or “What will be the next Cartier Baignoire?” 

Ahead, Haute Time tapped some of the watch community’s most discerning members — from collectors and curators to vintage and luxury market experts — to find out what is on their Watches & Wonders 2024 bingo cards (hint: it may be the year of dress watch domination).

J.J. Owens: Founder of Daily Grail and esteemed watch collector 

Selfishly, I would love to see more gem utilization. Last year the use of gems whether that be colored or something like the TAG Heuer Plasma, was so incredible to see as it changes the connotation of gems, especially on such traditional pieces such as the Carrera or a personal favorite, Jaeger LeCoultre’s Reverso Precious One.

If the past few years are any indication, I certainly hope Rolex continues to be a bit irreverent and play with colors, materials, and sizes. I loved the Celebration Dials the brand released last year as it shows not only a willingness to have fun but also an adaptation to new markets and a younger consumer. I am always excited to see Rolex, but Vacheron has never failed to impress me, especially with their more formal novelties. 

Making a prediction is such a challenge as throughout the years, many of my favorite pieces have been novelties that I could have never predicted. I always look forward to the novelties Cartier decides to re-introduce or modernize, as the baby Baignoires stole the show last year, I would love to see them bring back the Roadster in multiple sizes or one of their lesser-known vintage pieces. 

Eddie Goziker: Co-Founder of Wrist Aficionado 

I think we will see a trend for thinner watches, especially sports watches like divers and chronographs. It’s been heading that way for some time, and I think most brands are aware that people don’t want unnecessarily thick cases. Anything that will succeed will be elegantly sized. We also may see the dress watch trend start to blossom. The success of brands like F.P. Journe signals a possible shift away from sports watches. But if that emerged this year, it’ll only be the beginning — it’ll take time for that trend to take over.  

Patek Philippe is going to shock the watch world this year with a new sports model. They have the Nautilus, and they have the Aquanaut, but a third sports model will arrive this year that will shake up the market (if it’s well-received). Thierry Stern has been rocking the boat at Patek Philippe, a traditionally conservative brand, in the last few years, namely with his decision to discontinue the blockbuster 5711. Many theorize that this move was made to pave the way for a new model — a model that will cement his legacy in Patek Philippe’s history. 

Leigh Safar: Global Head of Important Watch Collections at Sotheby’s

I think A. Lange & Söhne will surprise us the most this year.  They have an amazing following, and in recent years have regained some of their popularity with the rise of independent brands — especially in the US. They are so well made, and classic timepieces. I, like many, am very interested to see what Cartier unveils this year, as they’ve been one of my most requested brands for private sales in the last 18 months. I also really love Jaeger-LeCoultre and Laurent Ferrier, so I will surely be looking to see what they introduce. 

I think we will continue to see an emphasis on ladies’ watches this year, and iterations of classic dress watches for both men and women.  Overall I think case circumferences will be generally smaller than they’ve been in the last five years. They’re become smaller because people are enjoying the classics more and vintage pieces with a smaller circumference have been regaining popularity rather than the larger military watches.

I would expect Rolex to come out with another variant of the GMT this year and/or hopefully a new design entirely that pays homage to the bubble back. I absolutely love bubble backs and think they are incredibly underrated.

Eric Wind: Owner of Wind Vintage

I think it’s clear what is popular in the watch world: smaller watch sizes, stone dials, and yellow as well as rose gold, particularly on bracelets. I think we will see more of that from companies, particularly the more jewelry-oriented watch companies.

Like everyone, I am excited to see what Rolex debuts as well as cancels. In terms of surprises, I would be pleased if Patek Philippe offered something extremely desirable as the last few years have seemed very flat for the company in terms of introducing extremely desirable watches. I also think a lot of people are expecting Vacheron Constantin to come out with a steel 222, which seems like a no-brainer at this point for the company.

To find out if these predictions come to fruition, continue to follow Haute Time throughout Watches and Wonders 2024 next week in Geneva.