Haute Complication: The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked In Yellow Gold

Audemars Piguet expands its Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked collection (ref. 16204) with the introduction of an exquisite 18-karat yellow gold model. A luxurious update to the 2022 release of the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked model, the new model sports an 18-karat yellow gold casing that remains faithful to the aesthetic codes of the original 1972 model. The gold bracelet gently tapers, and the 39mm case showcases Audemars Piguet’s signature alternation of satin brushing and polished chamfers, creating a captivating interplay of light.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Audemars Piguet

The inner bezel and the openworked movement’s bridges are bathed in a yellow-gold-toned hue that perfectly matches the case and bracelet. Delicate polished white gold hour markers and hands adorn the dial, echoing the white gold hexagonal screws that secure the bezel and the intricate gear train visible through the openworked bridges. The dial side also reveals the movement’s jewels, adding a subtle touch of color. The Audemars Piguet long-form signature is elegantly printed in black on the sapphire crystal.

The ultra-thin self-winding Caliber 7124 seamlessly combines precision, performance, and the art of openworking. This exceptionally slim hour and minute movement, measuring a mere 2.7mm in thickness, was meticulously designed and crafted by Audemars Piguet engineers and watchmakers to fit within the slender 8.1mm “Jumbo” case without compromising its aesthetics or thickness. Operating at a frequency of 4 Hz, it boasts a 57-hour power reserve when not worn, ensuring long-lasting accuracy. The large barrel further enhances timekeeping precision over an extended period. Additionally, it features a slender openworked oscillating weight in 22-carat pink gold plated with yellow gold, mounted on ball bearings and equipped with in-house developed reversers for bidirectional winding. Ingeniously inserted inertia blocks within the balance wheel reduce friction and enhance overall performance.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Audemars Piguet

The openworked design of Calibre 7124 is proudly showcased on both the dial and the caseback. Achieving this fine craftsmanship required advanced technology combined with the manual dexterity and meticulous attention to detail of skilled artisans. Each component’s position and geometry were thoughtfully planned to achieve a harmonious and well-balanced openworked aesthetic. The mainplate and bridges’ preliminary geometries were precision-cut through computer numerical control (CNC) machining and then meticulously refined to attain their desired shape. These components were meticulously finished with Haute Horlogerie decorations, including traits tirés, snailing, and polished chamfers. The movement’s 247 polished V-shaped angles exemplify the exacting skill of the manufacturer’s artisans.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Audemars Piguet

The Royal Oak collection, evolving with each decade, has introduced over 50 openworked models to date. These models feature different movements and come in a variety of sizes, materials, and styles—an embodiment of passion and expertise passed down through generations.

While openworking made its debut in the Royal Oak collection in 1981 with a pendant version (Model 5710BA), it truly became an integral part of the collection in the 1990s. This decade witnessed a plethora of openworked Royal Oak models. In 1992, the first openworked “Jumbo” (14811) was introduced, featuring a dial adorned with finely chased oak motifs. This unique model was auctioned to support the Audemars Piguet Foundation. Subsequently, several openworked “Jumbo” models, equipped with the extra-thin Caliber 2120 were introduced in limited quantities until 2000. These models showcased various designs, some with gemset hands (e.g., 14789, 14793, and 14814) and others with stylized motifs like Models 14884 and 12518 (a unique creation for the brand’s 125th anniversary), featuring a naval anchor against a backdrop of stormy waves surrounded by ropes.

Openworking returned to the “Jumbo” collection in 2010 with a stainless steel model (15305), this time equipped with the self-winding Caliber 3129 measuring 4.31mm in thickness. Two years later, the manufacturer unveiled a new slate grey openworked “Jumbo” limited edition to celebrate the Royal Oak’s 40th anniversary. This edition was powered by the Calibre 5122, encased in 950 platinum. In 2014, an 18-carat pink gold version joined the collection.

In 2022, for the collection’s 50th anniversary, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked made a triumphant return. To mark the occasion, the Manufacturer introduced two models, available in stainless steel and 18-carat pink gold, both featuring the new self-winding openworked movement, Caliber 7124 — and the release of the yellow gold version this year adds to the legacy with its refined golden aesthetics, blending traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge techniques.