Haute CEO: On The Clock With Jean-Marc Pontroué, The CEO Of Panerai

Welcome to Haute CEO, an exclusive series where Haute Time goes on the clock with the watch industry’s top CEOs who’ve become leading innovators in the space.

Haute Time sits down with Panerai’s CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué during two major moments for the brand this year: Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva and right before he cut the ribbon alongside Chris Pratt to mark the opening of Casa Panerai on Manhattan’s highly coveted Madison Avenue. After holding positions at esteemed watch brands like Montblanc and Roger Dubuis, Pontroué joined Panerai in April 2018. Since Pontroué has been at the helm of the Panerai brand, he has brought the Panerai history and story to the modern era with incredible storytelling through global Panerai openings, new timepiece releases, and synergistic partnerships. Ahead, we go on the clock with Pontroué, discussing everything from this year’s Watches & Wonders novelties and the opening of Casa Panerai in New York to what’s next for the Panerai brand this year.

HAUTE TIME: Can you walk us through Panerai’s theme at Watches & Wonders this year?
JEAN-MARC PONTROUÉ: When we started thinking about the 2023 Watches & Wonders exhibition two years ago, we wanted to have something with three stages, like the very first fairs where Panerai showcased at over 100 years ago. So, this year is all about our heritage. Here, in our world, all of the pieces in the windows are antique — not replicas — which is really rare. We [also] have some watches with original movements.

The booth concept is inspired by Eilean, a Bermudan ketch from the 1930s we found abandoned and in a state of advanced disrepair on the island of Antigua in 2006. The boat underwent a complete restoration that took over three years to complete. It has naturally become part of Panerai heritage.

The booth is designed as a journey to immerse in its icons, brand pillars, and above all, the Radiomir collection for aficionados as well as those interested in the Panerai’s rich history.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Panerai

HT: What is your favorite timepiece this year?
JP: This one (as he points to his wrist) — the Radiomir California. It is inspired by the historic Ref 3646 from the archives of the Maison, the California Dial is characterized by alternating Roman and Arabic numerals, bar indexes, and a minute track. The California showcases a characteristic antiquated look, accentuating its appeal to watch connoisseurs in search of authenticity and storied timepieces. As you can see, it wasn’t necessary to have the name on the dial because you immediately know it is Panerai.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Panerai

HT: What are your goals for Panerai for the 2023 year?
JP: Watches & Wonders, for me, is like a fashion show. It’s your staging ceremony; we don’t really need it to sell to trade partners because they have seen most of the novelty pieces before the show. But, what is key is that they can come here and touch, see, and experience the product in reality. It is also an occasion where we can meet the press face-to-face. The beauty of the watch fair is being around so many people within a week. So, our intention at Panerai this year is to do what I often say: change everything without changing anything. To keep the Maison as it is, you change everything, but you change nothing.

The Radiomir collection embodies this philosophy. You can change the colors and materials, but the shape of the Radiomir remains the same. It is the celebration of a timeless design but, above all, of our heritage.

HT: On that note — congratulations on the New York Casa Panerai opening. Can you walk us through the process of creating Casa Panerai?
JP: It’s a project we started five years ago. Being in what is the most successful market for Panerai and a major city in America, we had a presence in New York, but not at the height that the brand deserve to be at. In fact, our presence in Miami or LA was far better than in New York [before Casa Panerai]. We had been researching and receiving hundreds of proposals, but then the pandemic hit, and the project slowed down.as been conceived and designed entirely by the Panerai Studio, the Maison’s in-house creative agency based in Milan.

Today, we have created Casa Panerai. We wanted to have a flagship store in a strategic position to make a statement: Madison Avenue was the perfect location where to strengthen our presence in the heart of New York, reflecting the vitality of its streetscape. It’s a great milestone for us as it is also our largest boutique ever; this is how we wanted the brand to exist in the City.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Panerai

HT: What is the Casa Panerai concept?
JP: The Casa Panerai is a concept we introduced with the New York store. For us, [the term itself] Casa Panerai summarizes well what we mean. Our boutiques are places to live; it is first a hospitality center — that happens to sell watches. We are here to excite your curiosity as to what the Italian roots of the Brand are while also showing what we are doing in Switzerland. It’s an Italian cocktail of creativity with Swiss-made ingredients.

Here, customers will find both historical and contemporary timepieces and can interact with the watches without glass barriers. An immersive multidimensional timeline will take visitors through all our milestones.

For the very first time, we have a ladies’ department dedicated to the Luminor Due Collection. We have also introduced a lounge and bar area, serving Italian coffee and beverages. Indeed, we called it Bar Italiano. This is to create this slightly disruptive approach in the industry and welcoming experience. The fact of being Italian, of being a family business, and of being a watchmaker brand is all so special. For newcomers to the Maison, Casa Panerai tells them the unique story of Panerai, and for those familiar, it reminds them of it.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Panerai

HT: Casa Panerai is a monumental moment for the brand. Does this set the tone for Panerai’s expansion in the United States market?
JP: Absolutely. You have to be big in New York, and then that becomes a door opener to do what you want to do. This year we are opening doors in locations such as Washington D.C., Philadelphia, Topanga, Palo Alto, Boston, and Honolulu. We have a lot of new projects in the pipeline in America — I believe it’s about 30 store openings in 18 months.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Panerai

HT: Being at the helm of the brand and its massive global expansion, how do you look at time?
JP: I would need an entire afternoon to reply to the question. I hate being late (it can happen easily), and I love to wake up early, at about 5:30 am, no matter where I am. It allows me to have a half hour only for myself where I can live in my bubble. It’s the moment of the day when I can sit with myself, my espresso, and my iPad to read the news, see my agenda and get into my routine. For me, time is about getting into a rhythm.